Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
